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Using a camera 101: Setting gauge Landscapes
When photographing landscapes is essential to have the meter activated to achieve proper fit correct exposure results. Meter camera setting helps you decide what combination of aperture and shutter speed to use in order to obtain a properly exposed photograph. Every camera is different, but be like "on board" feet from the camera. I have a Nikon D700 and three configurations the instrument: cash, central and 3D Color Matrix. We will discuss the three and compare and contrast the advantages of each. Then explain what settings meters using all the time, and how to get the most out of each facility, while in the field.
Spot metering meters setting a circle of 4 mm in diameter (about 1.5% of frame). The circle is centered at the point of the current approach, to measure center subjects. Whatever the primary point of interest is, the camera meter the subject and calculate the correct aperture and shutter to use. Be marked on the aperture and shutter manually by they fit into the camera. When using spot metering, the main focus will be exposed correctly. However, this does not mean the rest of the picture is correctly exposed. It is very frustrating at times when using spot metering, because the first shot is usually taken seriously underexposed or overexposed. Since the success rate is low, you have to constantly adjust the aperture or shutter to get the exposure you want.
Meters center-weighted metering entire frame but assigns more weight to the area in the center of the image (defaults to 12 mm in the center of the viewfinder). center-weighted metering is like a cross between point and 3D Color Matrix. If the photographer wants to gauge a tone or color, or something that is continuous throughout the frame, spot and center-weighted metering work very well. The best advantage when using center-weighted metering is "expose for highlight its brightest," and can aspire to the point of meter to the brightest highlight and make sure you are not overexposed.
The third meter Setting 3D Color Matrix. This configuration is recommended in most situations. The camera measures a wide area of the structure and adjusts the exposure according to the distribution of brightness, color, distance, and composition natural scenery. Personally, I only use 3D Color Matrix when I'm shooting for a proper exposure. 3D Color Matrix calculates the correct exposure over 90% of the time without having to change the aperture and shutter buttons. This decreases the wrong exposure and ensures almost as pressing the shutter button, the recorded picture correctly, thus capturing the fleeting scene. Furthermore, if the exposure is over-or underexposed, a minimum of effort to correct it because exposure correct configuration is relatively close to the meter reading by the camera.
The setting gauge in the photo is very important creativity rather than control, but from a time perspective. Time is the essence of photography, and the success of his photography can be determined by a fraction second. For this reason, 3D color matrix use all the time when shooting. I have tested and verified in the field and center-weighted, but find them too inconsistent to trust fleeting moments when shooting. I've been in situations where the picture is ruined because it reduces or increases, and the experience / moment will never be repeated. Therefore, not only the important indicator of adjustment to get the correct exposure, but is most reliable when shooting a new scene for the first time without previous readings.
I found some uses metering, however. When I am with special graduated neutral density filters, it seems to take a meter reading area shaded and the bright sky on the horizon to help me choose what filter to use force. For example, I have filters that are a stop, two stop, and 3 standing in the force. If spot meter reading indicates that the shadow area of my photo is the best exposed at f4 and shutter 1 / 10 and then indicates that the bright skyline is best exposed in f4 and shutter of 1 / 80, I know use the stop filter 3 as the range of light values in the shaded region and the horizon is 3 stops. I can use spot metering in exclusively for this method of calculating the strength of the light in different areas. In all others, my camera is always set to 3D Color Matrix.
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